We had decided on a day off today and to spend it visiting a place called Basho Valley, which is high in the hills, reachable only by 4×4. Initially we had planned to hire a Jeep from the jeep rank and the bottom of the hill, which would entail our riding some 40 km there and back.
Then I had the idea of asking our hotel manager to organise one for us, and it turned out the hotel had a jeep for just this purpose. We agreed on a price, but shortly afterwards he came to tell me the jeep had a mechanical problem and would we, instead, take the Landcruiser. I agreed, which proved to be a good decision, and, together with our new co-traveller from the UK, we set off.
Right from the start, it became evident that the advice given to us by Fernando, the Spanish (surprise) biker we had met earlier was good. The road was rocky – big rocky – and steep – very steep in places – and narrow – yes, very -you get the idea. We might have made it up – just – but it wouldn’t have been much fun, and the descent would have been a nightmare. The completely enclosed, or at least enclosable, Landcruiser, was definitely a better option than an open Jeep. Most of the traffic was heading our way, but occasionally a vehicle appeared from the other direction, requiring some herculean driving by our, and the other, driver.
We had to cross a river using a suspension, or rather a suspended, bridge. The platform was the usual one-vehicle-wide affair, with two longitudinal wooden tracks joining the transverse planks. This bridge differed from others we had experienced, in that it was not attached to the banks; it just swung freely!
When, 1½ hours later we finally arrived at the valley, it was worth the pain. A wide lush plain, with a river running through it and surrounded by snow-clad peaks. The fact that it was clearly a popular local destination didn’t detract from the spell we all fell under. We had a bit to drink, a bite to eat, and then, of course, we had to climb a hill – as if we weren’t high enough at 3,200 metres.
Back at the hotel, we were treated to some fireworks and a slice of birthday cake, thanks to the niece of one of the guests. Thankfully, it wasn’t nearly as sweet as I expected; it was very good, actually.
So that was essentially the end of our trip. Tomorrow we start on the final legs home – 3 days to Islamabad – 3 long days!
For a change, our plan to be on the road early came to fruition and we were rolling by 0700! We had no plan, other than to reach Chilās, about 250km away.
We rode for an hour in somewhat chilly conditions; Jack stopped to don his fleece, and a little while later, I was close to doing the same. Then we turned a corner, the sun was on the road and the day improved.
It took a while to get the circulation going again, but by the time we stopped for breakfast, we were warm enough to complain that the sun was too hot, and seek out some shade. Breakfast, at a truck stop, was good!
The road was mainly in good condition, although there were some parts that were rough. Jack complained that his forks were bottoming out on every little bump, so we decided to add some air to the front tyre to try and compensate. And the scenery was still stunning.
In Jaglot, just where the S1 joined the N35 (Kakoram Highway), we stopped for air, but the mechanic had other ideas. He pulled the springs out and shook his head; they were too short he said.
What followed was as good a bit of shade-tree mechanics I have seen. He used a large screwdriver to lengthen the forks by spreading the coils where the progressive bit started. Taking care to make sure they were the same length, it took him 15-20 mins to stretch the springs by about 5 cm.
Jack was sent off on a test ride, and meanwhile, the other bike had the chains tensioned. Jack came back saying it was a definite improvement; not perfect, but certainly better. So off we went again.
On the way up, I had noticed some amusing road signs counselling caution: “The road is hilly; don’t be silly” was one, but my favourite was, “I am curvaceous, be slow”
We arrived back in Chilās with no further ado, and after trying several hotels returned to the Shangri-la that we had sampled on the way up.
Tues 27 May
We set off to Chilas without breakfast, given our previous experience. The ride today was over a high pass that had been closed on our outward ride. As we started the road was good, and Luka wondered why it had been closed. “All the snow can’t have melted in just a week,” he said. “Wait and see,” was the response
The road was, on the map, and interesting one, and on the ground it proved to be interesting also; it rose from 3,100 metres to 4,120 in 12 km through 38 hairpins.
The little bikes struggled a bit here, so we just had to sit back and let them set the pace. It’s getting repetitive, but, more stunning vistas, and some smiling faces. We had to ford some rivers running over the road, thanks to the melting snow, then we came across the snow walls, answering Luka’s question.
And finally we were at the top.
This was our planned breakfast spot. It was cold, and, surprising to me since he had spent all winter in the Alps, Jack felt it more than Luka and me. Breakfast turned out to be a DIY affair, as they didn’t seem to understand, or know how to cook, and omelette.
On arrival in Naran, there followed our only real issue with lodgings throughout the trip. For reasons best known to someone other than ourselves, we opted not to use the recommended hotel and chose one of our own. Mistake!
We were promised lights, hot water, and WiFi within 30 minutes of our arrival; 3 hours later, sitting in a dark room and with night approaching, we decided we’d had enough.
During our wait, there had also been the most horrendous downpour. The river opposite was suddenly in flood and the drains overflowing. We were worried about our chances of making it down the mountain next day; Luka was particularly stressed, as he had to be back at work on Friday.
As I negotiated our refund, the boys headed out seeking another hotel, and found one just up the road called the Aussie Hotel, owned by a local chap who lived in Perth. 😏 This proved a good find, and he offered us a heater to dry out our kit that had got wet during the day.
Thee was no further excitement and we went to bed after dinner, steeling ourselves for a long, arduous ride in the morning. Oh, I only managed a partial refund.
Weds 28 May
At first it was cold, and we got to play in the snow a little on the way down.
But very soon the temperature climbed and by the time we stopped for breakfast, all the warm weather gear was off. After another hour or so, I decided I needed an ice-cream; a Magnum on fact. The ice-cream parlour 😂 happened to be next to a barber’s shop, so ….
With of course the obligatory cup of tea.
After this a final run into Islamabad in increasing heat, and our first family motorcycle trip was finished.
We treated ourselves, that evening to a dinner and a beer, well 2 actually, at the Marriott Islamabad. The beer was good, but dinner a bit disappointing.
Thurs 29 May
0230 – alarm call for taxi to airport. They packed fairly quickly and were gone; it was over! I was “Alone Again, Naturally!”
Belfast-2-Belfast-By-Bike 