Tue/Wed 04-05 Jun
I arrived at Mayoka Village, and yes, the tar – well concrete – does go all the way to the gate. Still the first impression was a bit of a shock. The place is perched on a steep hillside bordering Lake Malawi. It’s a well-constructed and well-established place, but camping is clearly not the priority. If all your kit is in a backpack, you’re fine; otherwise – like me – it’s several trips up and downsome quite vertiginous steps to the “pitch” – more like something you’d find halfway up Everest.
Still the pitch was flat, and just big enough for my tent. Access to the water was almost as challenging and I came out with a grazed and bleeding toe 😦
I met and had dinner with an interesting and varied group: Bill Lui – 67 year-old from Hong Kong who spends 6-8 months a year traveling while his wife continues working for her pension; Tomoko – very young looking 42 year old Japanese American who dropped out of the rat race and is now travelling the world looking for a home; and young Jasmin – a Masters student at Edinburgh from China. Otherwise, the place was occupied by a bunch of folk I guess you’d find in a backpackers anywhere.
I decided to stay for a couple of nights and next morning I checked out the bike which seems to be OK apart from the fact that the battery voltage is low; it’s charging OK but doesn’t seem to be getting to full. Front tyre is a bit low in pressure which may be contributing to the wobble. Nothing that will stop me getting to Dar – hopefully – where I can check it out.
My hand is bugging me somewhat. Not made easier by bruised thumb after bike fell over. But in the mornings, it’s really quite painful and stiff. Anyway it’s not incapacitating.
I spent quite a while trying to sort out the route for the next few days. Finding accommodation is proving harder that I thought. This is partly due to my not wanting to do any more sand, but even so camping places are few and far between and after sending several emails, I’ve had 2 non-deliveries and only one reply. Then I went kayaking; I hope Jasmin is better at studying than she is at paddling! 🙂
Tomorrow the plan is to head for Livingstonia / Karonga, but no definite decision yet. Once out of Malawi, I’ve got the stops in Tanzania sorted out – provided the first one is still functioning; their website last listed prices in 2016! Then I’ve made contact with Amanda, a friend of a friend, who has very kindly offered me a place to stay in Dar-Es-Salaam.
Thur 06 Jun
My departure was delayed since the 24-hour laundry service took a little longer, but soon enough I was on the road. After a particularly bad stretch of road coming down a very picturesque mountain, I decided to give Livingstonia a miss as it’s up a very steep and difficult road apparently.
The night stop is in Ngara, at the FloJa Foundation campsite.
This proves to be reasonably accessible, and turns out to have a very pleasant campsite – lots of grass and shade – but no hot water, no beer and no food. It’s right on the beach, the neighbours are friendly, and a swim is in order! For food, I’m directed to the lodge next door, but this is closed!
Eventually one of the local guys finds me a couple of warm beers and I heat up one of my emergency ration packs. This turns out to be a quite tasteless lentil and bean stew; I regret leaving my spices behind during my luggage cull.
Up and out next day, not too early as it’s a relatively short 135km today, though with a border crossing.
Getting out of Malawi is easier than getting in. The only hitch was the customs lady didn’t fill in my CDP properly; this is pretty critical if I’m to get my deposit back. Still, it wasn’t a big deal to get it fixed and hopefully I won’t be needing the one sheet she botched up.
Belfast-2-Belfast-By-Bike 