Darryl Boswell
So this was it! On Sunday 19th April 2019 I had crossed the start line and the journey had really begun. Before leaving Dullstroom, however, I had a meeting with Darryl Boswell, who is a direct descendant of Richard Charles O’Neill. I had been pointed his way by the owners of Mrs Simpsons, and had immediately phoned him to set up a meeting. At 0800 I set off into town wrapped up against the cold and the fog; it’s true what they say about the temperatures in these parts!
As an aside, I learned that my decision not to attempt Sani Pass over the Easter weekend had been a good one. Roisin and her mates, who were in the Berg for a music festival had jumped ship early because of the cold, the rain and the snow! I suppose I ought to be grateful it wasn’t snowing here.
After breakfast and a very interesting chat, it was back to camp to pack up. The weather hadn’t improved much so it was full wet-weather gear as I set off towards Hazyview, my target for the day.
The road was pretty well surfaced, most of the traffic was heading in the opposite direction, the clouds stayed at hilltop level and the rain held off. I made good time along the sweeping roads, through Lydenburg, then up and over Long Tom pass and down into Sabie.
Long Tom Pass is so-called because it is where the Boers located their artillery to shell the British during the 2nd Boer War. Going up the pass it was clear why; the view of the surrounding lowlands would have been spectacular on a clearer day. The gun in the photo is on the location of the last active Long Tom.
At some point – I can’t remember when exactly – I had decided to give the 3rd Belfast a miss also, (saving something for another day) and, as there didn’t seem to be much, well any, reason to stop in Sabie, I headed on to Hazyview. This was a great little road with lots of wide bends, with a few that tightened just enough to make you think. Unfortunately, just a while before Hazyview, it became badly potholed. It was here that the front-end rattle, that had become noticeable in Dullstroom, declared itself a problem!! By now it was almost incessant.
Gecko Backpackers (R180 for very shared room with kitchen and shared ablutions) was my accommodation for the night. I had the place to myself which was just as well; if the room, with 7 beds had been full, it would have been a very cosy experience! Still shower was hot, kitchen was well equipped, bed was comfortable and, I got my washing done! 🙂
Next morning, Tue 20th April 2019, I set off for the Komatipoort, and the border with Mozambique. First off, I stopped to pick up some malaria prophylaxis, not something I normally use, but in the wake of Cyclone Ida, I had heard there was an epidemic in Mozambique, so I thought it prudent. I also bought a course of Co-Artem for treatment in case the worst happened; these were somewhat expensive precautions at nearly $100, but knowing myself and my propensity for being poorly compliant the prophylaxis will last the trip, and the treatment will keep.
The road from Hazyview to Witbank and Nelspruit was good, I had been told, but after half an hour of slow-moving traffic, traffic humps and multitudes of pedestrians, I was wondering what had happened to it. Turned out I had missed the turning /:) and instead taken the old road through the communal areas, a 20km sprawl of people, houses, roadside shops and traffic.
The rattle I had been hearing was coming from the front brake caliper. This is notorious in northern climes for seizing up, if not regularly maintained, due to the juxtaposition of an alloy bracket and a steel pin combined action of water and road salt The problem here was just the opposite; there was too much movement! The hole in the alloy bracket had worn to an oval, and the whole thing was now loose and clattering about every time I hit even a tiny bump on the road.
A front brake is quite important, 🧐so I thought I better see to it before heading into Mozambique as I thought the bits I needed were more likely available in Nelspruit that along the Mozambique coast.
I spent the afternoon looking around Nelspruit for the bits I thought I would need. In the end Jane at Smith Power suggested she get their mechanic to look at it and see if he could fix it up. He did and they did!
I kept a close eye on proceedings as it was clear this was a first for the guys, and I had to point them in the right direction / keep them on track more than once. I thought it was worth it as they probably did it more quickly than I would have myself – but see below!!
So the night was spent in Nelspruit in a New Frontier Backpackers (R250 in a private room with shared kitchen and ablutions, but without breakfast) managed by Gavin, an avid motorbike enthusiast. So was his Dad, who came to admire my bike and we spent a good 45 mins chatting.
I sent off for Komatipoort and the border with R150 in my pocket, which I was assured was the toll for use of the N4. I had a great ride through the mountains along the R40 and R38 to the N4.
However, there was one last hurdle to overcome before I left South Africa; the toll was R160 and I had been shortchanged by R1, so I only had R149. Why was this an issue? Well only cash was accepted at the toll-gate and I had exceeded my cash withdrawal limit, so I was stuck!
I was about to go plead my case at the office, when couple on a motorbike pulled up on the other side of the toll gate – they had just passed through. I sprinted – well not quite, more like strolled nonchalantly – over with a cheerful, “Good morning!” I explained my situation and asked if they would give me the R11 I needed. “Happily,” they said, so I was back on the road; happy days!
At the Caltex garage before the border I paid R140 for 3rd party insurance, obligatory for Moz which is not part of the COMESA insurance scheme. Oh, and I scrounged another R2 from the girl who sold me the insurance so I could have a pee – it never ends :😂 In return I bought her an ice-cream, using my card.
Belfast-2-Belfast-By-Bike 